Case Study: Making special fabric (编织特殊织物)在线视频

Making Special Fabric

纺织特殊织品

Wong: Lily!

Lily: Hi, Professor Wong.

你好，汪教授

Wong: You’re one of the very few that the fashion designerswho have actually gone into the area of making fabrics particularly for special purposes. How did you come up with the idea of these special fabrics?

你是为数不多纺织特殊用途织品的时装设计师，你是如何产生这些特殊织品的想法？

Lily: Actually, because I have many years working experience in the industry, I think I learnt a lot from the experiences and my team. When I’m doing the research, I think marketing is always more important.

事实上，因为我有多年的工业工作经验，我觉得从这些经验和我的团队中学会了许多。而且在研究过程中，我觉得市场总是更重要。

Traditionally the design procedures maybe have the fundamental research first, and then technology. They use the design to packagethe technology, and then go to the market.

传统上来说，在设计的过程中，首先应该是进行基础研究，接着是技术，然后用设计去包装技术，最后再投入市场。

Actually the methodology for my team is we will think about the commercialization work first.

我们团队的方法是首先考虑商业化。

For example, it will be going to medical market, it’s going to the education market, it’s going to the online shop or different ways.

比如，它将要投入医疗市场、教育市场、网上超市还是其他的不同方式。

That’s when we have the business plan, we use the technology to package the design. 

所以有了商业计划时，我们使用技术去包装设计。

That’s the technology actually weknow, have the idea at the beginning. 

所以在我们最开始提出这个想法的时候，我们考虑的是技术。

We will have the needs. We know where is the need of the market first, and then we base on the needs and do some testing in advance.

我们知道需求，首先知道市场的需求在哪里，然后我们根据市场需求做进一步测试。

Then generate some data and comeup with ideas. So it’s in a different way.

最后，我们获得一些数据进而提出想法。这是我们的不同之处。

Wong: How did you pick up the needs from the market? How do you know where the market is?

你如何从市场中找到需求所在？你怎么知道市场在哪里？

Lily: Because I always have the trips andbecause the textile is different from the other majors. We have a very huge industry base.

因为我经常出差，而且纺织和其他专业不同，我们有着强大的工业基地。

When we talk about the fabric, we also have the different positions in textile.

当我们谈论织品的时候，对纺织的定位也不一样。

For example, we have the fabric technology, yarn technology, and fabric, and then the fashion.

比如，我们有了纺织技术、纱线技术，然后才是织品，接着进化为时尚。

Fashion is like a very important part. In the left hand is the industry andin the right hand,actuallyis the commercial world.

时尚是非常重要的一部分，它的左手就是工业，而右手则是商业世界。

This is a designer’s very unique position.

这是设计师的特别位置。

When we’re talking to, for example, the fashion company and they may ask how’s the change of the needs of the market and what they need.

比如，当我们和时尚公司讨论时，他们可能会问市场需求的变化是什么，他们需要什么？

When I come back to the industry, they will have different technology. How can it be promoted to the end users?

当我回到工业时，他们就会有不同的技术，并将这些技术推广至最终的使用者。

So there are alwaysa lot of gaps. when we talk to them, and then we can say “Oh! maybe this is a gap”.

所以总会存在很多差距，与他们交谈时，我们可能会发现，“噢！这可能就是差距所在”。

There are many many gaps to be filled in.  They will create a lot of ideas based on the competition.

因此在市场中有许多许多差距需要我们去弥补，基于竞争他们会创造出许多想法。

Wong: I noticed that you mentioned many of them deal with health and medicine. How did you come up with this as your specialized area?

我注意到你刚提到的想法多与医疗健康有关，你怎么想到把它作为你的专门领域？

Lily: That’s from you, Professor Wong!

这来自于你，汪教授！

You know, before actually my research or my education background is fine art. It’s like a fashion designer. It’s drawing sketches or something like this.

你知道，其实我的研究或教育背景是美术，它像时装设计师，是画草图或类似的工作。

Because you are my co-supervisor and my chief supervisor is Raymond Au from Design.

因为您是我的副导师，主导师是从事设计的雷蒙教授。

Professor Wong, you are my co-supervisor in medical, and another supervisor is Professor Li from textile technology.

汪教授您是医疗领域的副导师，另一个合作导师李教授来自纺织技术领域。

I think this is, you know, originally why my research is related to health care.

所以我认为这是最初我的研究领域与医疗有关的原因。

It’s because three professors generated some ideas so that I learnt from you. This is a very good beginning, I think, during that time.

因为我从您们三位教授提出的想法中学到了许多，在那时这是一个非常好的开始。

I can involve some medical, involve some animal testing, different drug release. I learnt a lot in that period. That built some fundamental knowledge for me and for my future research.

我能够涉及医疗、动物实验、不同药物的释放，而且从中学到了很多，这为我的发展和未来的研究奠定了知识基础。

Wong: This team that you just mentioned, obviously the team probably some remembers left the University. So how about your current team, your present team, what are their specialties?

你刚刚提到了团队，很明显有些成员已经离开了大学。所以你目前现在的团队怎么样？他们的专业领域是什么？

Lily: My research team, I think still maybe half of the manpower is from design. Design is not the traditional design. It’s not only fashion design.

我认为我的研究团队中应该有一半的成员来自设计行业，因为设计并不一定是传统设计，也不只是时尚设计。

Nowadays we require the design is what we call interactive design.

现在我们要求设计是互动设计。

The designers should have different backgrounds.

所以设计师应该有不同的专业背景。

For example, they may be graphic designers, they may be fashion designers, or even they are industrial designers.

比如，他们可以是美术设计师、时装设计师，甚至是工业设计师。

This is one important part for my team.

所以这是我们团队的一个重要部分。

My team would have the manpower in material science, in textile technology, in biology background where some students from, and also have my marketing staff.

我们团队也有材料科学、纺织技术、生物学的背景，一些学生来自于此，而且还有市场营销的同事。

They are all from different disciplines and we work for maybe two or three research ideas together.

他们全部来自不同的学科，我们共同致力于两三个研究思路。

Wong: Right! Talking with the people whoare in industry and people whoare in the commercial world is always difficult. Now also talking with different disciplines, so this is tough. How did you overcome this challenge?

是的！和从事工业的人以及商业界人士交谈总是困难重重。而现在要和不同的学科进行交流，更是棘手。你如何克服挑战？

Lily: Challenge, I think, always managing them is very difficult, but I think,with time. I have some co-members in my team, they support me a lot.

挑战！我认为管理他们总是困难的。但随着时间，而且有一些团队成员，他们给了我很多支持。

Usually I will be in the beginning of the research. I will work with them together to find out some outcomes from the huge data.

通常我会参与研究开始阶段，和他们一起工作，从大量的数据中找出一些结果。

When we find the way, this has the gap of the market.

当我们找到时，也便会发现市场的差距。

Then what we have, it’s easy to commercialize.The research students will work basically on the first step of the outcome and then continue to development. The industry always gives me a lot of support, whether it’s funding, equipment or the manpower.

之后进行商业化就会比较容易。研究生先根据结果做一些前期基础工作，接着持续发展，工业往往给予许多支持，不管在资金、设备还是人力方面。

I always think that a good relationship with industry and we support each other is very important.

我一直认为与工业保持良好关系并相互支持十分重要。

Wong: How about your commercial partners?

你的商业伙伴怎么样？

Lily: There’re a lot, you know. Actually,I think now my time is not enough to build the relationship with different companies.

有很多商业伙伴，你知道其实我没有足够的时间去和不同公司建立关系。

When I build up a research, I will find the end userfirst.

所以当我组建一项研究时，会首先找出最终用户。

For example, the bra industry, I understand because this industry is a very big industry, I will think about what kind of the material or technology they are looking for, combine with design.

比如内衣工业，我知道这个市场或这个工业非常大，所以我会先考虑他们正在寻找哪种材料或者技术，和设计进行结合。

Because you know the bra industry now has changed theirmockup, so how to make a bra, the procedure is changed.

因为你知道现在内衣工业正在不断更新模型，所以如何制作内衣，这个程序也在不断变化。

Of course, they require new materials. When I get the inspiration from them, I will work with some fabric industryto see what new knowledge can come out from, maybe the fabric company, the yarn company, or the fabrication procedure. This is the method I used.

当然，他们要求新材料。当我从他们那里得到灵感，便会和一些纺织工业合作，看看从中可以产生什么新知识，可能是从纺织公司，纱线公司或制造工序。这就是我的启示。

W: You graduated from your doctoral study, almost ten years ago.How many products now have you produced so far?

从你博士毕业后，大概有十年了，你已经创作了多少产品？

Lily: I think I have around more than ten projects that had finished, including ITF projeccts, T1, T2, T3, around four or five I remember.

我相信大概完成了超过十个产品，包括ITF项目在内，我记得大概有四或五个。

I have three GRF projects, all completed, and then the internal projects. Also, I think I have more than 20 of the consultant projects.

我还有三个GRF项目，都已经完成了。另外有些内部项目，我还有超过二十个顾问项目。

For the products, more than 100, a lot, I cannot really remember.

到现在应该有超过100个产品，太多了，我没办法记清楚。

Very busy that I don’t have time to clean or tidy all the outcomes, all the paperwork.

我太忙了以至于没有时间去整理所有的成果和论文。

So I really want this summer. I can have time to tidy upthe research work.

所以我真希望今年夏天有时间去整理这些研究工作。

Wong: How many patents have you got?

你已经获得了多少专利？

Lily: Patents, I think more than ten.

专利的话，我想应该超过十个。

Wong: Are they all licensed to the company to produce?

它们被授予公司许可证进行生产了吗？

Lily: I think there are five or six have license out. And still have the clients talking about for the license.

我想大概有五六个已经对外授权，还有客户正在商谈许可证。

Wong: That’s very outstanding performance.

表现非常优秀！

Lily: No, no, no, thank you!

不不不，谢谢你。

I think in commercialization because my background is from industry, maybe I get benefit from the experience, so that it’s easy to have the product commercialized.

我认为商业化过程中，因为我有工业背景，可能会从这种经验中获益颇深，更容易实现产品商业化。

Come back to the original question, in the beginning we are talking about the fashion design. This position, I think, fashion design, before you just like a graph designers, or graphic designer, but nowadays they play a very important role between industry and the commercial world.

回到最初我们谈论的时装设计这个定位，我认为时装设计师，之前就像平面设计师或美术设计师一样，但现在他们在工业和商业界扮演了非常重要的角色。

So, this also benefits me.

这对我有好处。

Now the trend of the economy or the society is also looking for the novelty, and this also gives the opportunity for the designers to have more ideas.

当前的经济或者社会趋势是寻求新鲜事物，这使设计师有机会拥有更多的想法。

Wong: Now looking back at what you have done,what do you think are the most important things in order to be creative and innovative?

现在回想一下你所做过的，你认为要变得有创意和创新的最为重要的是什么？

Lily: I think in the beginning maybe you need the creative and also many ideas, but in the half part, I think the, for example, like me, I work in university around ten years, I think you need the strong energy of the body, for that you need long time to focus on the work.

我认为开始时可能需要有创意，并且有很多的想法。但到了中期，比如像我在大学已经工作了十年左右，我认为也需要强大的身体能量，因为需要长时间地集中精力工作。

Wong: You got to work hard on it.

你需要悉力以赴。

Lily: Mentally strong

意志坚强。

Wong: Mentally strong! Have you got an example to show us?

意志坚强!你有没有样品给我们展示？

Lily: Yeah, here I have actually a product. It can be for the support like a knee pad.From the product, you can find it’s the knitting material.

有的，我确实有件产品，它可以用作辅助支持，类似护膝。从这个产品，你可以看出它采用了编织材料。

Actually, this product is made by one of the sponsors, and he has bought the license. We work together to have the development.

其实这个产品是由我们的赞助者之一制造的，他购买了许可证，然后我们共同开发。

This company has produced different kind of the variable electronicsimilar products. This is one of the products.

这家公司还生产不同种类的可变电子产品，这个是其中之一。

This one has got the award, in design or concept, I forget, but got an award.

而且这个产品还曾得奖，是设计奖或概念奖，我记不清了，但确实获过奖。

All the products made by the knitting machine, and you cannot find any electronic parts or conductor material.

所有产品均由编织机做成，你从产品上找不到任何电子传导或导体材料。

It can be put into the washing machine for the wash, and then can repeatedly use as a normal garment.

它可以放到洗衣机里进行清洗，而且像普通衣物一样重复使用。

This is the advantage for the product. For this technology, what advantage of this technology is? It can be like a lace fabric, can be very light weight and is elastic.

这是这个产品的优势所在。在技术方面，它的优势是能够做到类似蕾丝织物，非常轻盈而且有弹性。

This is the difference with the normal heating product.

这是它和普通保暖产品的不同之处。

Wong: And how many times can we wash this?

我们清洗它多少次？

Lily: Just like normal garment, based on the test results, after the thirty times laundering with international standard, it’s still just increasing, I think, a little bit of the resistance.

就像普通衣物一样，根据测试结果，采用国际标准经过三十次的大力清洗后，它仅仅稍微增加了衣物电阻力。

I think just like a normal knitted wear and normal garment, put into the machine to wash.

我认为，它和普通的编织衣物或正常衣物一样，直接放到洗衣机里洗就可以。

Wong: Very clever!

非常聪明！

Lily: Before I joined ITC, I worked as a cashmere knitted wear designer. This is my original knowledge learnt from industry.

因为加入ITC前，我是羊绒衣物设计师，所以这是我从工业中学到的原始知识。

I really appreciate of my boss after eighteen years. I remember their names, YangYong and YangBin, the two bosses. I appreciate them giving me a lot of opportunities to learn what is yarn spinning and what is knitting technology.

所以我真诚感谢十八年前的老板，我仍然记得他们的名字——杨勇和杨斌，这两位老板，我很感谢他们给了我很多学习新型纺纱和编织技术的机会。

Wong: That's exactly what learning is about. You go back to your original idea and then you try to reflect what have learned. You build it up and become bigger and bigger.

这正是学习的定义所在，你回到最初的想法，然后努力反思所学的知识，建立越来越庞大的知识库。

Lily: Yeah, I just learn. For example, I learnt some from industry, I learnt from my colleagues, I learnt from my supervisor and then learnt from industry. I’m just like combining the different things together and then keep hard working.

是的，比如，我从工业中学习，从同事中学习，从导师身上学习，在从工业中学习，我就很像学习将不同的事物结合，然后为之努力工作。

Wong: Then what’s next? What are you going to do next? Any specific goals?

你接下来是什么？打算做什么？有什么特定目标吗？

Lily: I think,for the next maybe I have the graduated PhD students. They also know a lot about the technology, maybe can do the commercialization or have their company.  All the technology can be developed into different products. This is the next step we want to explore.

接下来，我可能有了毕业的博士研究生，他们懂得很多技术，可能会做商业化或开公司，所有这些技术可以转化为不同的产品，这是我接下来想去探索的。

Wong: How many products have you produced so far since you graduated from your doctoral study?

从你博士毕业至今，你创作了多少产品？

Lily: Oh, there are a lot. Because I go to the funding from different parties, some from government, some from industry, and some from the University.

非常多，因为我会去不同的机构获得资金支持，有些是政府资助，有些是工业提供，有些是大学。

I think in total maybe more than one hundred.

所以我觉得总共可能超过一百个，或者更多。

Yeah, because one fashion show maybe thirty outfits already, so there are a lot.

因为一个时尚秀可能就要三十套装备，所以应该有很多。

But I don’t remember the details, more than one hundred in different area. Thank you.

但是我记不清具体的数字了，不同领域的加起来应该超过一百个。谢谢您！